Playing Dark Tourist at the Kigali Genocide Memorial

It is no news that Rwanda has a dark history and when I got to Rwanda, the Kigali Genocide Memorial located at the Gizozi  Center was my first stop. I wanted to know it all, how friends turned on friends, why neighbors executed neighbors, I wanted to know the history of the place I just set foot.

kigali Genocide Memorial

The Kigali Genocide Memorial was opened on the 10th Anniversary of the Rwandan Genocide. It is the final resting place for over 250,000 victims of the Genocide against the Tutsi in Rwanda. It tributes the memory of over 1,000,000 Rwandans killed in 1994. The Kigali Genocide Memorial includes three permanent exhibitions, documentary of the 1994 Genocide, a children’s memorial and an exhibition on the history of genocidal violence around the world.


Genocide In Rwanda

On arrival, a brief video is played to introduce visitors to the memorial. The contents of the exhibition are self-explanatory enough, but for additional info and excerpts from survivors’ testimonies, I hired an audio guide which cost me $15. Explanatory texts in all sections of the memorial are in English, French and Rwanda’s national language, Kinyarwanda. The memorial shows the gruesome activities that took place during the genocide and is not for the fickle minded.

Kigali Genocide Memorial

The Rwandan genocide is one of the worst large-scale genocide in modern history. An event which occasioned the mass butchering of up to one million people, predominantly of the Tutsi ethnic minority by extremists of the Hutu majority. The killings which lasted for about 100 days from April to July 1994 was an out pour of ethnic distinction which was institutionalized during the colonial rule by Belgium. Learning about the root cause made me angry at the colonialist for planting strive.

Genocide in Rwanda

Before the advent of colonialism, distinction between the Rwandans had been by class rather than race although the Tutsi minority were the elite. There were a lot of intermarriages such that the ethnic divide was blurred. The ethnic distinction was only institutionalized and enforced in identity papers during colonial rule by Belgium. The Belgians also taught ethnic cleansing which eventually became grounds for open confrontational racism during the post-colonial power struggle.

Kigal Genocide Memorial

Before the 1994 genocide, there were sporadic genocidal acts directed against the Tutsis but the situation grew increasingly more violent and explosive during the early 1990s. There had been mass propaganda through radio and hate speech however, the catalyst for the eruption of the mass killings was the shooting down of a plane on the evening of 6 April 1994 which had Rwanda’s then Hutu president Habyarimana as well as Burundi’s Presidenton board


Both presidents were killed in the subsequent crash after which a planned, systematic, nationwide extermination operation targeting both Tutsi and moderate Hutu leaders began.

Genocide was instant.


Road blocks were mounted by militia with one intent – identify and kill Tutsis.

House to House searches were not left out.

It was an Apocalypse.

Kigali Genocide Memorial

It was Genocide from the first day.

No Tutsi was exempt.

All Hutus were openly requested to take part in this extermination of all Tutsis else they were at risk of being slaughtered. It was declared “work’’ and the 10 commandments which the Hutus were to live by was published.

Kigali City

Women suffered largely during the genocide, a significant part of the genocide was the organized mass war rape of Tutsi women and girls, often carried out in full public view before they were slaughtered. In the process many women were deliberately infected with HIV, a disease deliberately used as a weapon. Children were also not left out as victims, majority watched as their parent were being executed. A separate section is devoted to the many child victims of the Rwandan genocide.

Kigali Genocide Memorial

Kigali Genocide Memorial Center

The genocide I learnt was well orchestrated, through a whole hierarchy, often supported and ordered by local and regional leaders, in many cases even with the active involvement of the church. I also learnt that France might have sponsored the genocide war, I read that France provided the genocide perpetrators a safety net with which to escape and that the French helped the Rwandan Hutu regime by providing military training to the Hutus before the genocide.

Rwandan Genocide Memorial

The international community failed to come to the rescue of Rwanda, and the failure of the world and the UN to intervene and stop the genocide despite being informed as to clear indications that a genocide was being prepared stands as one of the blackest marks in the history of the organization. The eyes of the media were also focused on Bosnia where war which also included genocide was occurring but on a much smaller scale than in Rwanda, because it was closer to the west.

Genocide Meaning

In the end it was the Tutsi rebel army of the Rwandan Patriotic Front (RPF) under Paul Kagame the current president of Rwanda who ended the genocide through systematically invading Rwanda from their bases in Uganda, and eventually seizing power in the country. When the genocide was over, foreign aid money started to flow, far more than what it would have cost the world to prevent the genocide in the first place.

Genocide Memorial

Today though political freedoms are still largely restricted, the country is coming to terms with its genocidal recent past. I asked my friend John who was my guide for most of my stay in Rwanda whether he was Hutu or Tutsi and the response I got was shocking. He told me He was Rwandan and Rwandans are one.

John Love

This showed me that Rwanda was amazingly quick with reconciliation efforts which was taken as a state policy. The future of any country depends on its ability to understand and reconcile with its past and this Rwandans have taken to the letter. Throughout the country, youths are engaged in peace education programs and unity clubs.


The Kigali Genocide Memorial is an important place of remembrance and learning about the Genocide against the Tutsis. It is through this education that other mass atrocities can be stopped from occurring in our communities. The mass graves are supplemented by a wall of names of some of the victims buried there.


The Gisozi Centre also features a book and gift shop where Made in Rwanda products can be purchased, there’s also an extensive range of books on the Rwandan genocide. It is free to access the Kigali genocide memorial but donations are welcome. Opening Time is 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. daily, the memorial is closed on public holidays and the last Saturday of each month. I was so excited to have been to the memorial, I left with a lot more clarity, knowledge and insight.



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  • Reply Tamie May 21, 2018 at 7:29 pm

    This period in Rwanda’s history is really a sad one. I remember watching the movie sometime in April. It was heartbreaking.

    • AE
      Reply AE May 22, 2018 at 1:17 pm

      It really is. I want to see the movie also, any idea where I can get it.

      • Reply john love tuyiringire May 23, 2018 at 2:34 pm

        hope you are well
        please take your time and visit Rwanda you
        you will even know deep
        we welcome you
        sure you can enjoy your time here as our sister did I was so glad to spend sometime with her

        • AE
          Reply AE May 24, 2018 at 8:26 pm

          Hi John, I am doing fine. Id definitely be back in Rwanda, my time was short and was unable to see much. Thanks for your help during my stay. Cant wait to host you here in Lagos, Nigeria.

  • Reply Olalekan Moses May 22, 2018 at 8:49 am

    When I visited the Memorial Center in November, 2017, I remembered North East Nigeria, how that Genocide is become a norm in Nigeria and we forget these experiences too soon, thank God for NGO interventions, should we not have memorial centers too?… I imagined deeper things and was sober. The phrase “Rwandans are one” has so much lessons in it. Since 1994, Rwanda has grown to become better than it ever was, very clean and friendly environment, the Airline is doing very well in bringing people from around the world to Rwanda. From the Airport, there’s a feel that tempts you to pay $30 single entry visa just to see more about the country even if you never intended. As a Travel and Aviation Consultant, I beat my chest to say Kigali airport rates better than Lagos Airport, it’s not by size but by customer or passenger’s satisfaction… You hardly would be at Kigali airport and yet miss your flight, the workers so help you not to by ringing your destination in your ears.

    Walking through the roads, it was and still is just impossible to see plastic bags, almost everywhere is green. I wondered, when our leaders travel, what do they see? What lessons do they come home with? I challenge myself with the lessons from Rwanda to make Nigeria better, this is why Rwanda is yet my choice destination in Africa.

    Thank you A.E for scripting this aright, I should take writing lessons with you, you are too good and true. I look forward to an adventurous trip with you. Blessed!

  • AE
    Reply AE May 22, 2018 at 1:29 pm

    I totally agree with you. Rwanda is unique and the warmth you receive there is next to none. You have said it all. I wish our leaders learn lessons from their travels abroad. Rwanda despite its harrowing past have been able to restructure and be better off. The Kigali airport was a save haven for me especially during delayed flights, the WIFI was Free and Fast, the environment serene and clean.. Immigration officers were ready to help and not once did anyone try to extort me. Rwanda is a model that other African leaders should emulate.

  • Reply Adam May 23, 2018 at 10:00 am

    Anu, honestly I must commend you for your braveness to embark on this journey and to reveal one of the largescale genocide of modern history. Kudos to you.

    • AE
      Reply AE May 23, 2018 at 10:14 am

      Thanks Adam.

  • Reply Kofoworola May 25, 2018 at 6:12 am

    wow! Rwanda……I should book a visit

    • AE
      Reply AE May 30, 2018 at 5:56 pm

      You should! It’s a nice country and I would definitely be headed back there.

  • Reply Kodi May 25, 2018 at 4:03 pm

    Very touching, Anu. Especially in line with Nigeria’s situation right now. Acceptance and tolerance is key

    • AE
      Reply AE May 30, 2018 at 5:59 pm

      Thanks for reading love! I cannot agree more.

  • Reply Karen Kowal November 9, 2018 at 3:26 am

    A lovely and well-written account of Rwanda and it’s history. I made a trip to see a friend in Kigali this past February and was immensely delighted to meet so many friendly, gracious people in your country. I had no idea what to expect and had many fascinating experiences over d3 weeks with my friend who was also a nurse and lived there in Kigali.
    I also visited the Memorial and tho many sites opened my heart, one panel continues to haunt me and I would so appreciate a photo of the English or a copy of the words used. It was about genocide. And the wisdom of how a genocide begins as the ‘people’ are told that all news media is fake. This was in 2004 according to the opening date of the Memorial… but I would love to have those words. We are dealing with this in America, and as a frequent poster against hate and over-reach of power of one political party and current president, That panel is so pertinent I would love to include it in my photos of all I was privileged to see in Rwanda. I thought I had taken a photo, but apparently did not. Thank you for any help you can give.

    • AE
      Reply AE November 20, 2018 at 11:50 am

      Hi Karen! Thanks for the lovely words, I am Nigerian and only documented my visit there. I however have friends who are currently in Rwanda and who will be headed to the genocide memorial today. Could you tell me where exactly you found this photo? I would also check my photo gallery to see if I have this photo. Its really sad whats going on currently in America, I hope things change.

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